Moab Desert Weekend — Castleton Tower and Indian Creek
Base city
Moab
Total Climbing
5 pitches trad + 1 pitch crack (two days)
Difficulty
Advanced — 5.9 multi-pitch, 5.10d crack
Estimated cost
$280-480 per person for two days (camping, food, gas, permits)
Best for
Experienced trad climbers checking off Utah desert bucket list objectives in one efficient weekend.
Day by day
Day 1
Morning
Leave Moab at 5:30am. Drive 30 minutes northeast on UT-128 to the Castle Valley tower trailhead. Start the 1.5-hour approach hike through loose talus immediately. Arrive at the base of the North Face Route by 8am.
Afternoon
Climb all four pitches of the North Face Route (5.9). The summit block is the crux — a 5.9 jam crack with 120m of air below. Take it slow, protect it well. Summit by 1pm if the pace is steady.
Evening
Rappel descent, return to car by 3pm, drive back to Moab. Dinner at Moab Brewery — you earned it. Sleep early for Indian Creek tomorrow.
Day 2
Morning
Leave camp by 5:30am. Drive 45 minutes south to the Indian Creek climbing corridor. Arrive at the Supercrack Buttress pullout by 6:30am. Tape hands and start on the 5.8 warm-up crack before the sun hits the wall.
Afternoon
Lead Supercrack of the Desert (5.10d) when your technique feels dialed — typically 10am or later after proper warm-up. Take your time. After Supercrack, explore adjacent 5.10-5.11 cracks at the buttress.
Evening
Drive back to Moab by 3pm. Shower at the campground or hotel. Dinner at Milt's Stop & Eat. Drive north toward SLC if leaving today.
Routes Included
Gear List
- ✓Full trad rack (cams 0.5-3 inch, doubles on 1-2)
- ✓Hand tape: 6-8 rolls minimum for two days
- ✓60m rope
- ✓Helmet
- ✓4L water per person per day
- ✓Camp stove for morning coffee
- ✓Sunscreen and a wide-brim hat
- ✓Topo for Castleton Tower descent
Logistics
Moab is the base. Castleton Tower: 30 min northeast on UT-128. Indian Creek: 45 min south on US-191 then west on UT-211. High-clearance vehicle preferred for the Creek. Water available in Moab only — fill up each night. America the Beautiful pass covers day use fees at both areas.
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Hotels, hostels, and guesthouses — compare and book.
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