Route guides, trip reports, and practical advice for climbing in Utah
Indian Creek is the most famous crack climbing destination in the world and one of the most demanding places to show up underprepared. This is what you need to know before your first trip.
Read More →Utah has two completely different climbing seasons depending on whether you are heading to the desert or the Wasatch mountains. Getting the timing right is the difference between perfect conditions and a sunburn.
Read More →Utah desert crack climbing requires a completely different gear system than sport climbing or granite trad. Here is exactly what you need, why you need it, and what to leave at home.
Read More →Moonlight Buttress is the most famous free climb in Zion National Park — 11 pitches of red Navajo sandstone above the Virgin River. The permit system, the route, and what it actually takes to be ready.
Read More →American Fork Canyon is Utah's best limestone sport climbing, 30 minutes from Salt Lake City. Here is how to navigate the crag, what to climb, and what makes the tufa features so unusual.
Read More →Indian Creek now requires a permit for day use at the most popular areas. Here is the current permit system, how to apply, and what to expect.
Read More →Castleton Tower has multiple routes from 5.9 to 5.12. Here is a breakdown of each line, who should attempt them, and what makes the tower so compelling as an objective.
Read More →Utah has three distinct rock types with completely different grade feels. A 5.10 at Indian Creek is not the same as a 5.10 at Little Cottonwood Canyon. Here is why.
Read More →Indian Creek camping ranges from free dispersed BLM sites to Moab resort camping 45 minutes away. Here is every option, with honest assessments of what works for a climbing trip.
Read More →Little Cottonwood Canyon is 30 minutes from Salt Lake City and has some of the best moderate granite multi-pitch in the United States. Here is the full guide to climbing in LCC.
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