American Fork Canyon Full Sport Day
Base city
American Fork
Total Climbing
4-8 sport pitches (5.10-5.12a)
Difficulty
Advanced — 5.12a sport
Estimated cost
$60-120 per person (gas, food, no guide needed for experienced sport climbers)
Best for
Sport climbers projecting their first 5.12 and Salt Lake City day-trippers with 6-8 hours free.
Day by day
Day 1
Morning
Drive up the canyon road from American Fork city center — 20 minutes to the cave area. Rack up with 12 quickdraws and start on lower canyon 5.10 routes to warm up forearms and dial in limestone pocket technique.
Afternoon
Move to the main cave for Battle of the Bulge (5.12a). Set up a top rope first to rehearse the crux sequence: high feet, left hand on a tufa pinch, dynamic throw right to the jug. Lead it when the moves feel logical.
Evening
Drive down the canyon and refuel at Costa Vida or JDawgs in American Fork. Drive back to Salt Lake City or check into the Hampton Inn for the night.
Gear List
- ✓12-14 quickdraws
- ✓60-70m rope
- ✓Helmet
- ✓Chalk and chalk bag
- ✓Skin cream for limestone abrasion
- ✓Extra chalk for projecting
- ✓Layers — the cave is shaded and cool
Logistics
Drive from SLC: 35 minutes south on I-15 to American Fork, then east up the canyon road (SR-74). Canyon road parking is free. Standard sedan handles the road easily. Do not park blocking road gates — rangers ticket frequently.
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